After Talkeetna, we had already decided to go to Seward for the 4th of July. It's a big deal there and they have festivities all day, starting with fireworks at 12:01 A.M. Yes, that's A.M. We'll just have to take a nap. And then another one. But back to the shuffle. Originally, we thought we would mosey into town on the 1st or 2nd and snag a prime spot with a view of the water. Luckily, Ms. Paula is an awesome planner and she decided to call and check it out. The gentleman she spoke with sort of laughed, nicely, but he laughed. We found out that you have to be here by June 29th or so and then still work at getting a good spot. After hearing that, we busted out of Talkeetna and headed south. It's a beautiful drive along the coast, often running beside the trains. We arrived in Seward on the 28th instead and the place was packed. Oh, no, we thought. We'll never get one of the coveted front spots. You drive through and so many spots have been paid up for days, filled with only a chair and a pay stub. That's what we were warned about. Craig and I lucked into a spot on the waterfront, but the others had to spend a day in the back row. We spent the afternoon meeting the neighbors, and figuring out which ones were leaving the next day. That is the shuffle. Everyone trolls all afternoon and then gets out early the next morning, ready to grab a better spot. Van and Rich located two prime spots and were into the shuffle. With only one more spot to find, I was talking to a nice lady, looked left and saw a motorhome backing out and started running. The man said he was leaving so I wished him safe travels. I now had the spot for Big Mama, but no phone and no walkie talkie. I was just standing there trying to figure out how to get someones attention, since I could not leave the spot. Thank goodness Paula was out trolling and ran into me. What was really funny was that Tom was headed toward me too. He had looked out of the motorhome, seen me take off and knew something was up. By noon, we all had our front row seats. Whew!! Now we can relax and watch everyone else.
But we are also watching the bald eagles and sea otters. These guys were playing and having a time. The other otter paid them no attention, and just kept eating. They continue to be a source of amusement. Boats are coming and going, cruise ships and even the Coast Guard's newest ice breaker and research vessel, The USCGC Healy. What a beauty! Looking forward to a great 4th of July!
We spent the day in Talkeetna, AK on the way south. It's a cool little town, made famous by the railroad and as a staging place for those about the ascend Mt. McKinley. The name of the mountain was changed from Mt. Mckinley to Denali in August, 2015, or should I say, back to Denali, but it's taking some time to get everything lined up. Most of the maps we saw still referred to Mt. McKinley. Either way, the mountain was awesome. We spent some time walking around, eating (of course) and seeing the sights. As we do, some of us posed with some photo boards. Of course there was ice cream. And along with the ice cream, was a young woman that noticed our guys in their matching hats, looking happy all day. Turns out that she writes for a newspaper in Pittsburgh and also for National Geographic. She interviewed the guys for an article she was writing as they enjoyed their ice cream and promised to let them know when they would have their "15 minutes of fame".
We are in Denali National Park and Preserve. It is a beautiful day and we are up early to take the bus into the park and see some animals. Hopefully. We are ready to look, that's for sure. On the way in, we saw a black wolf. Our bus driver assured us that was a good sign, since sightings of wolves were rare. It was amazing to see one, just running down the road. but not as exciting as the trip back from the Eielson Visitor center. Craig and I stayed behind to do some hiking around the visitor center. But the ranger hike ended up being 1 mile straight up, so I had to do only half, as I still had to come back down. We still had a nice hike, and the amount of plants on the tundra was amazing. So many small flowers that you just don't see from the road. Tiny and amazing. But more about Tom, Paula, Rich, Joan and Van's trip back. They happened upon a wolf that had taken a caribou and was gorging on it before returning to the den. So cool to see that on a bus tour. Ask them and they will tell you the story. By the time our bus came by, the kill site was only the end of the caribou and several crows.
We did see this guy and he was just ambling along, not worried about us in the least. I decided to try on some antlers and boy are they heavy. Craig had to time the photo so I could lift them just at the right time. Bearly made it. Ha, Ha.
We are on the way to the most visited National Park in Alaska. Denali National Park and Preserve has been on our short list. Some of us have visited before and others are having their first time in the park. We can't wait to get there. But first we had to stop in Nenana,AK, home of the Nenana Ice Classic. What do you ask is an ice classic? It's one if those things that you do to kill time while waiting for the end of winter. Sort of the frozen equivalent of watching paint dry. They place a giant tripod on the frozen Nenana River and attach it to a clock on a tower on shore. Then they wait, and wait, and wait. When the ice begins to break up, the tripod falls through the ice and stops the clock. And the winner is...maybe Craig and me. We bought a few tickets just to be on the safe side. You just never know.
They also have a nice little Railroad Museum. I get a kick out of going to museums in small towns. You never know what was important in the area, and they usually have something that makes you go HMMMMM. Like this gentleman. He represents the Alaska Territorial Guard. A unit of 21 paid staff, 6368 volunteers from 7 native tribes along with several Europeans, ranging in age from 12 to 80, including 30 women who watched the shores of Alaska during WWII and were instrumental in the Battle for Attu. We talk a lot about the Highway and the War, but we can't forget about the people.
The next day we visited downtown Fairbanks. I had to find another of the pylons marking the Alaska Highway and mileages from Fairbanks. Griffin, Georgia is 4,210 miles from Fairbanks. We thought we were a long way from home, but did not realize just how far. At this point we are closer to Mexico City (3840), Oslo (3750), Seoul (3770) and Tokyo (3480). What?!?! Too bad we can't just drive to those places, too. Okay, not really.
The afternoon was spent on board the Riverboat Discovery. A family run business, the tour takes visitors for a ride down the Chena River and stops at a re-creation of an Athabaskan Indian village. They have hired native teenagers to provide the narratives about the lives of the native peoples. These kids did a great job and have a genuine appreciation of their heritage. This is one of those teenagers wearing a beautiful coat used for special occasions.
We also stopped by the kennels of the late musher Susan Butcher, four time Iditarod Champion. The dogs were amazing! Wouldn't you like to have a job where puppies follow you everywhere? Can you imagine the smiles?
Small world time. Paula runs into a lady from her Sunday school class and her husband. They were on a cruise and ended up on the same boat. She got to catch up with her and find out what's been going on at home. Nice!
On the way out, we decided to spend a very short time in the Alaska at 40° Below room. Okay, it was really a walk in freezer to let you see what 40° below 0° feels like. Okay, our door had been left open so it was only 20° below 0°. It was positively balmy. Not!
Craig noticed a beautiful restaurant along the shore as we cruised and surprised me with a belated anniversary dinner. The Pump House was wonderful. A beautiful setting on the river and the food was amazing. A fitting end to our time in Fairbanks. On the road again...
Craig and I decided to join the group at the Large Animal Research Station north of Fairbanks. They have herds of reindeer and musk ox. We really wanted to see the musk ox. They are perfectly adapted for the arctic climate with their thick undercoat of fur. The most interesting thing we learned is that they are most closely related to goats. And the thing we most enjoyed was seeing the babies, several about 8 weeks old. Sooooo cute. They also had a herd of reindeer that were a bit camera shy. They preferred to stay in the shade since it was a little warm and the sun was out.
Next we headed for The Creamers Field Migratory Waterfowl Refuge. On the way we stopped to view the Alaska Pipeline as it winds north of Fairbanks. You could practically reach out and touch it. It's an amazing feat of engineering. I don't know if you can see it, but the upright posts are connected by a bridge that the pipe rests on. The pipe can slide side to side which allows for expansion and contraction. The fins on top of the uprights are a mechanism for cooling the ground around the post since keeping permafrost frozen is a big deal with the pipeline. We've seen spruce forests on permafrost where half the trees are leaning. They refer to these as "drunken forests". Okay for trees, not so much for a pipeline carrying millions of gallons of oil.
After the pipeline, we visited the Creamers Field Migratory Waterfowl Refuge. We walked through the fields and the boreal forest. So quiet and still. A beautiful way to end the day.
Except that when we got back to the RV park they were having a car show. They do it weekly at this RV park. We walked around and talked to some of the owners. Nice folks having a nice day. That's the way to end the day, especially for Craig.
When you go to Fairbanks, you have to stop in North Pole at The Santa Clause House. You can buy a letter from Santa there or have them send one stamped North Pole. So many ornaments and cool little gifts. Of course, we bought something and then went to the North Pole Post Office and mailed them First Class from Santa. A fun morning with one of the biggest Santa's I've seen. Not sure if the fence is to keep people out, or keep him in. They even have Santa's reindeer there at the Antler Academy. I didn't see Rudolph, though.
The afternoon was a little more local to Fairbanks. We visited Pioneer Park, 44 acres of exhibits and shops that celebrate the history of Fairbanks. They have saved many of the original buildings from around Fairbanks and also have a great little aviation museum. There are two steel crosses that were meant to be placed in Barrow at the site of the plane crash that killed Wiley Post and Will Rogers. The crosses were deemed to heavy to be flown to Barrow so they stayed in Fairbanks. Later they were lost in a flood for years, then found and donated to this small museum.
There is much to see. You can even hang out in an old Huey or watch a movie while sitting in old ejection seat. We never miss out on an aviation museum. #museumselfie #akairhuey #pioneerairmuseum Off to check out the pipeline...
We spent the morning at the University of Alaska, Museum of the North. A cool museum, no pun intended. They have several movies, lots of history about the settling of Alaska, WWII and a great collection of contemporary art in the Dorothy and Herbert Vogel gallery. He was a postal worker and she was a librarian in New York City. Together they amassed a huge collection of art that has been distributed to art museums as part of the The Dorothy and Herbert Vogel Collection: Fifty Works for Fifty States. What an amazing collection! I have to include a picture of the brown bear, Otto. We want to see a brown bear, but from a distance. #OttoBear #OttotheBear
So, outhouses you ask? There was one display titled The Great Alaska Outhouse Experience. An interesting chance to sit down with your thoughts and some art... But no plumbing... Another interesting item was a diploma written on moose hide. Yes, moose hide. Either you were responsible for your own or maybe they only have one moose worth of graduates. Either way, it makes you appreciate the little folio you received on the temporary stage in the gym. Just saying...
We've been in Fairbanks for only a day and seen some pretty cool stuff. We started at the Midnight Sun Festival in downtown Fairbanks. It's a street fair with food and fun for the whole family. Yes, that is ice cream and chocolate covered bacon. Chocolate and Bacon. WOW! We decided to save the Ice Museum for another day. One where I have a thicker jacket and a scarf. BRRRRR!
The music was going all day. We loved the performance by the 9th Army Band. It was Awesome!! And then there was this guy, called into service by Joanne Olson. We are not sure who she is or what she stands for, but apparently everyone is rooting for her. Literally. More to come...
Otherwise known as our 12th anniversary. Craig and I have been married 12 years. It seems like no time has passed at all until we look back on all the things we have accomplished. It's been an amazing 12 years and I love him now more than ever.
We've run off on our own for a few days in Fairbanks to relax and reflect. We always use our anniversary to look back on our life together, revisit our goals and make more plans for the future. Can't wait...
Craig and I have run off to celebrate our anniversary in Fairbanks. On the way we passed through Delta Junction, the end of the Alaska Highway. Whew! But of course, the road continues. It's just named Richardson, Parks and Glenn. Sort of a bait and switch. You finish, but you've really just begun. We did stop at the Delta Junction Visitor Center. We paused for a photo with the end of the road marker, only to be overtaken by the Alaska State Bird. Okay, maybe that's just how it feels to travel 4,500 miles and be at the beginning, again.
We visited the Sullivan Roadhouse and Rika's Roadhouse, two original roadhouses on the Valdez-to-Fairbanks trail. They allow camping at the park associated with the roadhouse so we parked our house-on-the-road there and spent a quiet night thinking about those that went through so much trying to make their fortunes. The remnants of their lives are everywhere. Craig is sure he can get this one started. I'm a little skeptical. The last thing we came across was the Alyeska Pipeline as it crosses the Tanana River on a cable suspension bridge. The pipeline bridge is so much bigger than the automobile bridge. We continue to learn about those who discovered the oil reserves and the lengths they have gone to to retrieve it from the earth and transport it to the Port of Valdez. I can't wait to see more...
We finally made it to Alaska, okay, not counting Haines. or Skagway. Before we crossed the border we took the requisite picture at the big sign. We made it! Now only a million more miles to go! Okay, I exaggerate a little.
We ended up driving all the way to Tok, Alaska and staying put for a few days. We need a break every now and then. Remember, we've been on the road since May 1. Not our longest trip yet, but it soon will be. We did the usual things, Visitor Center, a little shopping and eating out. And this time, Van found the largest cinnamon bun we've seen so far at Fast Eddy's Restaurant, and we've been looking, let me tell you. Don't let the smile fool you, he's intimidated. Of course, we had to do the tourist thing and drive out to Chicken, Alaska. We just barely missed the Chicken stock Music Fest. So sad, but I did buy a CD so we can check it out. Not bad...
Rick and Joan posed with the giant chicken made of old school lockers. These people in Alaska really like to reduce, reuse and recycle.
We had a bite to eat before we headed back and Craig spots a local celebrity, Tony Beets, of the Discovery Channels Gold Rush. He noticed Craig taking a photo and got out of his truck for a photo and a chat. A little salty, but a nice guy. And apparently, a fan of ice cream like Craig.This beats the time we saw the Polar Bear, Hugh Rowland, from the History Channels Ice Road Truckers at the airport in Seattle.
Next, we headed in the direction of Tok, AK. We were told that this section was the worst on the highway, and we were not misled. Frost heaves were everywhere. I wasn't sure what they were before we came but now we all know that at their best you can throw your hands in the air like you just do not care. And at their worst, they rearrange your cabinets and refrigerator. Doors come open and everything slides around. Or you break something you really, really need. And did I mention the gravel and dust? Cough, cough. We managed to get through without serious incident. Thanks to God. Along the road, we encountered an RV that was not so lucky. It wasn't the frost heaves that got him, but poor maintenance service. As we passed him, the old Diplomat was trying to make it up a hill. Craig heard the engine groaning and said "fuel problem." As we looked for a place to pull off, those behind us tried to stop but he waved them on. By God's hand, there was a huge, paved turn out just up the road. We all pulled in and Craig and Van unhooked the toad and went back to check on him. In a few minutes, he made it to the turn out and our boys exercised their mental muscles and figured out what was wrong. Sure enough, one of his fuel filters was clogged. For some reason, Van had an extra one. I guess we really know why he had it. So he could bless this man and enable him to make it to Tok. The guys changed it right there and he was on his way. We saw him later in Tok and he thanked the guys again. Turns out he used to work on the Alaska Pipeline and is from Florida. Go, Gators! We all went to bed that night in Tok feeling pretty good...
Being on the ocean made us all hungry for seafood. We tried The Cannery outside of town. Sadly, we were a little late to get the catch of the day. We did, however, come across some more photo boards. Tom and Paula, and Rich and Joan obliged us and posed for some photos. I'm sure they have a second career if they want it. We are saying goodbye to the sea and hello to our last border crossing for a while. Hopefully, we can keep most of our fruits and vegetables this time. Several of our party have lost tomatoes and potatoes. Sounds like a soup base. On the road again...
After spending so much time on the Alaska Highway, we decided to spend some time on the Alaska Marine Highway and took the ferry to Skagway. We had almost as much fun watching them load the cars on the ferry and we did riding it. Our friends decided to go from Whitehorse to Skagway and take the ferry to Haines to meet us. He describes his experience on his blog at Bob and Pam Nodine. We filmed this RV backing onto the ferry, being instructed on where to move by the men on the ground. This is what it looked like. Hair raising, to be sure. Of course, I had to add some music, since no one wants to hear me talk. Skagway was a lot of fun. Our engineer had to check out the machines, a huge snow blower on a train. I don't even want to be around if you need a snow blower that large. I also had to see some of the weird and wonderful. For instance, the duck neck quilt at the Skagway Museum. You did not see that wrong. It's a quilt made of duck necks. I'm still trying to figure out why you would do that. Probably the endless day or the endless night. The photo just doesn't display the amazing colors very well.
On the way back we decided to stay out on the deck in the sun. It was a little breezy, but a beautiful day and a beautiful ride. There were quit a few people sleeping on the deck chairs in the solarium behind us. And then there was the intrepid soul that was pitching a tent in the open. The yellow line says "NO TENTS" under the cover. Imagine the wind, rain and complete lack of darkness for sleeping. That's a little rustic for us.
From Haines Junction we headed down to the coast. It was a beautiful drive on some of the best roads we've seen. And when we arrived in Haines, our park was on the beach. Literally on the water. The owners name was Joyce and she was a gem. She parked each coach with one try. Obviously, she's an old hand at this. She was also a fount of information about things to do in Haines. It's a quiet, cute town. This was the view from our RVs. Collective sigh.
The guys really enjoyed sitting by the water and solving the world's problems. Remember the problem with Big Mama's generator? Well, once we settled in they were at it again. And a little while later, problem solved. Craig found out that the voltage on the generator could be adjusted. So a few little tweaks and she's purring like a kitten. Haines has some cool things to do. The Sheldon Museum and Cultural Center, Fort William H. Seward, and the Haines Borough Public Library, an award winning library with amazing mission architecture and furnishings. And did I mention, The Hammer Museum? Yes, hammers. Hundreds of them. From ancient to quirky, they have it all.
This if for the airline folks. Hammers for cracking ice in the galley.
